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N62 Valve Stem Seal Master’s Collection

N62 Valve Stem Seal Master’s Collection
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Part Number: AGA-N62-VST-K-VK
Price: $990.00
$990.00

Need help? See frequently asked questions about the N62 Valve Stem Seal Master’s Collection

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Models This Product Fits

  • 2002-2005: BMW 745I & IL (E65 & E66)
  • 2006-2008: BMW 750I & IL (E65 & E66)
  • 2004-2006: BMW X5 4.4i/4.8is (E53)
  • 2007-2010: BMW X5 4.8i (E70)
  • 2004-2005: BMW 545i (E60)
  • 2006-2010: BMW 550i (E60 & E61)
  • 2004-2005: BMW 645Ci (E63 & E64)
  • 2006-2010: BMW 650i (E63 & E64)

Parts Included With This Kit

Quantity 1
Part # AGA-N62-VST-K
Description N62 & N62-TU Valve Stem Seal Tool Kit
Quantity 1
Part # AGA-CH-N62
Description N62 Chain Lock
Quantity 1
Part # AGA-SRP-N63
Description Valve Stem Seal Pliers
Quantity 1
Part # AGA-VSI-N62-N63TU
Description N62 & N63-TU Valve Seal Installer
Total $990.00
2 Review(s)

We've used this kit on several occasions to save our customers time & money. Great kit, easy to use, a must for any shop or DIY'er.

Great tool. I saved thousands of dollars. I recommend this tool for those owners who do not need a complete head job!

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This valve stem tool is intended for professional mechanics. It’s a very involved job so make sure you’re comfortable with taking the engine apart to this extent prior to beginning the job.

For the actual removal instructions of the valve covers Refer to TIS (Technical Information System) its procedure # 11 12 005 for the left side and 11 12 006 for the right side. The TIS is a system you have to subscribe to however, you could try a simple google search.

The N62 engine is the same whether it’s a 5-series, 6-series, 7-series or the X5. The procedure is the same the only difference is the layout of the engine bay. The labor time to do this repair varies a little depending on the model vehicle.

Before we begin the actual job here are the tools needed not included in the kit:

  • Leak down tester- so you don’t put too much pressure into the cylinder and cause the engine to turn over by accident.
  • Magnet of your choice
  • Needle nose pliers- fuel hose type is preferred for getting the valve stem seals off the guides
  • 27mm socket with a short extension- we prefer a long handle ratchet because it makes it really easy to turn over the engine in front of the crankshaft
  • White Lithium grease or something similar
  • Spark plug socket
  • STEP 1: Valve Cover L & R Remove

    Begin by removing the left and right side valve cover. In order to remove the valve covers, start by disconnecting the cam servo motor. Spin them until they disengage the gear on the inside. You can unbolt the flange that the servo motor mounts to from the valve cover. Undo the cam position sensor connector in the back and of course all the screws in the valve cover. Then, lift it straight up being careful not to damage the cam position sensor. NOTE: This is easier said than done with the engine in the car but take great care to lift straight up! Once the valve cover is off, you have the 4 spark plug tubes that you’ll need to remove as well.

    STEP 2: Cam Oil Line L & R Remove

    Remove the cam oil line and oil line clips on L & R side.

    STEP 3: Cam Position Sensor L & R Remove

    Remove old seal with pick tool. Clean Seal Groove (Completely clean is a MUST, use a small wire brush to remove ALL debris from old seal, inspect with mirror. Picture from 745 but same procedure on 760).

    STEP 4

    Start by removing the spark plugs on the left and right side. Install the 8 spark plug / TDC Tool on all 8 cylinders. There’s a hole in the center of it where you can insert the TDC indicator that comes with the kit. The Spark plug/TDC tool doesn’t need to be super tight, just tighten by hand. They have a little hole in them so objects can’t fall into the cylinder. This is very important; the hole allows air to go in and out of cylinder so it’s easier to turn over the engine while doing the repair.

    STEP 5

    Install the brush plugs in oil return holes on the bank you are working on, R side (Bank 1) has 4 holes and L side (Bank 2) has 5 holes. The Brush plugs are VERY IMPORTANT in case you accidentally drop a keeper the Brush plugs will prevent it from falling all the way down into the oil pan.

    STEP 6: Install Intake and Exhaust Plates

    Install intake plates as shown in picture on cam cap # 2 & 4, Note Plates are marked for location, when installing bolt ( supplied in kit)on square leg of intake plate, make sure bolt has full treat engagement before tightening nut ( BMW nut). NOTE: Do not over tighten nuts. Install exhaust plates with on Cam cap #3 & 5 with BMW nuts.

    STEP 7: Cylinder on TDC in Compression

    Insert TDC Indicator flag in hole of Spark plug/TDC tool. Bring the Cylinder to TDC in compression on the cylinder we are working on. Use a 27mm socket, short extension and preferably a long ratchet. Note that both intake and exhaust cam lobe is facing away from rocker arm. NOTE: We recommend removing the ratchet after the engine is on TDC so that when you apply air to the cylinder, and if the engine turns over you don’t break anything like radiator hoses or fittings in the front with the handle of the ratchet. Remove spark plug/TDC tool install leak down tester hose.

    STEP 8: Chart

    Reference the “AGA chart” Included in instructions. [The Compression Lever foot is labeled: L= Left, R= Right & S= Short] Note: the short lever (S) is used on the front ends where there is limited clearance. Refer to see what foot should be used. To avoid having to switch the cam holders from left to right every time, follow firing order. Ex: working on Bank 1 Cyl. #1, the next cylinder in compression TDC will be Cyl #4. (Firing order 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2) NOTE: One exception is on cylinder 2 because there’s a block on the side of the cam shaft. Here you will have to have the engine a little before TDC or after TDC in order to be able to get the clearance you need to do the intake valve on this side.

    STEP 9: Rocker Arm Remove

    Reference the “AGA chart” Included in instructions. [The Compression Lever foot is labeled: L= Left, R= Right & S= Short] Note: the short lever (S) is used on the front ends where there is limited clearance. Refer to see what foot should be used. To avoid having to switch the cam holders from left to right every time, follow firing order. Ex: working on Bank 1 Cyl. #1, the next cylinder in compression TDC will be Cyl #4. (Firing order 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2) NOTE: One exception is on cylinder 2 because there’s a block on the side of the cam shaft. Here you will have to have the engine a little before TDC or after TDC in order to be able to get the clearance you need to do the intake valve on this side.

  • Slide compression nut into compression bracket. Install the ratcheting wrench on the compression nut and the lever rotator handle on top of the rod. This gives you control to move this around and hold it back allowing you to compress the spring by ratcheting on the compression nut. Turning the compression nut nice and easy until the spring compress app ¼” or 6mm.
  • Now you can remove the rocker arm. Simply grab the rocker arm and lift up and snap it off the ball stud and pull it out. (you can use pliers if you like) On the bottom of the rocker arm you can see the retainer clips that hold it onto the ball stud. When you’re at the step you can also use this tool to replace bad lifters. The lifters just slide right out by hand. Next, flip the lever on the ratchet and reverse the rotation of the ratcheting wrench to allow the valve spring to extend and seed the valve.






  • STEP 10: Valve Keepers, Retainer and Spring Remove

    Use leak down tester. Apply air pressure to the cylinder. You’ll notice it has built pressure in the cylinder and it is keeping the valves closed. Once again, switch the rotation on the ratcheting wrench and this time compress the spring with air in the cylinder and the valve staying closed. Compress it far enough so that the keeper are fully exposed. With a magnet, remove the valve keepers. NOTE:Take great caution to not drop these into the engine. Flip the lever on the ratcheting wrench and release the tension on the valve spring. Remove the lever and wrench and swing the assembly out of the way. Use flip back picture.

    STEP 11: Valve Stem Seal Remove

    Remove the valve spring and retainer and if you have a pair of “fuel hose type pliers” it makes it much easier to remove the valve stem seal.

    STEP 12: Valve Stem Seal Install

    The new valve stem seal kit comes with an installation sleeve. This installation sleeve gets installed on top of the valve. This is to prevent the new seal from getting nicked when going over the retainer grooves on the valve. Apply a little bit of grease to the new valve stem seal. With the sleeve installed, simply slide the new valve stem seal down over the valve and guide and push it on with the pliers. Remove the protective installation sleeve. Save this sleeve because you will need it to install the other valve stem seals.

    STEP 13: Spring & Retainer Install

    Install the spring and the retainer. Come back with the compression lever and slide the foot back onto the valve and begin compression by turning compression nut. While guiding the lever with the handle, compress the spring until the valve stem keeper grooves are fully exposed on the valves.

    STEP 14: Valve Keepers Install w/Tool

    With the valve stem keeper installation tool, insert the keepers into the tool. Remember to have the fat side of the keeper facing into the tool. Dab it with a little grease. Insert the tool on top of the valve and push down. The keepers will automatically latch into place.

  • Valve Keeper Install w/o Valve Keeper Tool:Use screw driver with a little grease on the end to hold onto Valve keeper, position valve keeper so it lines up with groves in valve stem and insert so it sits in place, repeat the process for the other side valve keeper, take great care not to knock the first valve keeper off during installing the second keeper, once super frustrated with this order AGA valve stem tool and do it in less than 10 sec per valve.




  • STEP 15

    Now switch the rotation of the lever on the ratcheting wrench and release the tension on the spring. Watch the keepers while doing this to insure that they don’t get pushed off accidentally. Release the compressed air in the cylinder.

  • Rocker Arm Install: Compress the spring app ¼” or 6mm so rocker arm can slide in place. If the spring stays up, simply push it down by hand. You can now install the rocker arm by hand or with pliers. You should feel the rocker arm snap onto the lifter. Once it’s on make sure the rocker arm is fully seeded on top of the lifter and on top of the valve. Rotate the compression nut to release tension, slide/rotate the food out from under the rocker arm.


  • ,

    STEP 16

    These steps complete the replacement of 1 valve stem seals. Obviously there are 32 valve stem seals so repeat step 9 to 15. You will follow these steps 32 times. The same compression lever and rod is used on top for the intake. On the intake valves in the center of the engine you’ll go through the hole in the intake cam tower. Here you’ll take the foot and install it to the rod on the bottom by hand.

    REPEAT 32 TIMES

    STEP 17

    In regards to the intake cam there’s a very slight variation. The early cars have a spring assist on the intake ramp and to remove that spring just remove the torque screw. The spring can be released with a pair of pliers and pulled straight up and out. After that it’s back to the same way as the later cars where you can access straight down with the short foot and the intake compression rod.

    Quick Tips:

  • When doing the intake valves it has the variable lift lever on the intake that sits between the rocker arm and the cam shaft. This valve installation tool is designed to work on the intake with the lever in place. It will have very little clearance but it will clear with only about 1/8th of an inch or 3mm. When you insert the tool it goes just under the pivoting arm.
  • With the keepers installed, remove the tool and release the valve the same way as the exhaust valve
  • You don’t have to remove the rocker lever but if you want to you can. It gives you a ton of room to work with when doing the repair but it’s not necessary and just makes the job a little bit longer to do.
  • STEP 18

    When the job is completed and before you reinstall the valve covers, as a precaution, we recommend that you remove all the brushes, lay all the parts out on the counter and make sure you have all pieces included in the tool kit in front of you. This prevents you from possibly making a mistake and leaving items inside the engine.

    The Motor Won’t Rotate When Performing The Valve Stem Seal Repair. What Should I do?

    It’s likely that you have something lodged in the cylinder on top of the piston. Carbon buildup can drop from the valve onto the piston during removal, causing a jam. The piston is unable to squeeze the carbon build up through the .5mm clearance in the cylinder head, which prevents the motor from rotating to top dead center. We recommend using a borrow scope to see if there’s anything located on top of the cylinder in top dead center that was previously worked on. If you notice debris, use a needle nose nozzle to remove the blockage with compressed air.

    What is the average repair time for N62 valve stem seal replacement if I use your kit?

    N62 Valve Stem Seal Repair

  •  5/7 Series- 18-20 Hours
  •  X5 SUV- 20-22 Hours
  • How much PSI should I put into the cylinder head during the Valve Stem Seal repair?

    Our technicians use around 15-20 PSI of pressure when performing the leak down test.

    Are the valve stem seals you sell OEM?

    No. The valve stem seals included in our kits are manufactured by Elring and made out of Viton, a brand of synthetic rubber and fluoropolymer elastomer that withstands high temperatures better than the OEM seals supplied by BMW.

    Do the N63 and N62 Valve Stem Seal Tool Kits have everything I need to complete the valve stem replacement repair?

    The Master's Collection Kit has everything you need to complete the repair. The N62 Chain Lock, Seal Pliers and the Valve Stem Seal Installer will make the job a lot easier to perform, but are not required to complete the repair.

    Will the N63 Valve Stem Seal Tool Kit work on an N62 engine?

    No. The N63 tool kits will not work on N62 or N62-TU engines. This kit is designed specifically for N63 engines.

    Do I need to replace the camshaft bolts during the N63 or N62 Valve Stem Seal Repair? Are camshaft bolts included in the kits?

    It is strongly recommended by BMW that you replace the camshaft bolts during the repair, but it is not required. Camshaft bolts are currently not included in our Valve Stem Seal tool kits.

    Is there a way to tell if my stem seals are good without having to remove them?

    There is no way to determine the condition of the seals without removing them. However, if you have no oil consumption or smoke coming from the tail pipe, your seals should be in good condition. As a reference we typically see vehicles come in for the valve stem seals at about 90,000-120,000 miles, when the car is smoking.

    Can the valve stem seal repair be completed without removing the engine?

    The only major component that needs to be removed is the valve covers. This is what makes the repair so affordable!